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Gucci fashion show at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2008

I’ve been a bit apathetic about some of the things put out by Frida Giannini in the past, but I’m quick to admit that the F/W ‘08 Gucci collection is everything I want to wear. I’m in love with not only the clothes, but the freshly fucked hair, the khol-rimmed, smoky eye — the smoldering sexiness of it all.

Last spring, Phillip Lim described his collection as a girl who has been traveling and constantly picking up things on the way. As much as I love Philip Lim, I didn’t get that connection in his Spring 2008 collection.

I got that vibe from Gucci.

The clothes reminded me of a fashionable girl who’s following her rockstar boyfriend from country to country, hopping on jets, swilling champagne and collecting more clothes as she goes. She snatches up black jeans stateside, riding boots in London, ethnic prints in Russia. When she arrives somewhere just in time for a fabulous party, she shakes an ethnic scarf from her stuffed baggage and fashions it into a dress that becomes all the rage, natch.

D&G collection at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2008

Just when you thought this would be a season where plaid takes a backseat to print, D&G, the diffusion line of Dolce and Gabbana go out of their way to prove you wrong. The boys put plaid on fabulous shirts with blouson sleeves, long skirts that rippled well below the knee, pant suits, and even tights.

Some of it is a little bit too “hill country” for my taste, but the pieces can be easily separated and worked into your own wardrobe. A little plaid goes a long, long way.

Oh and I’m totally going to start knotting my scarves under my chin and rocking it out babushka-style.

Agyness Deyn for Versace Fall 2008

Donatella Versace has officially traded in over the top sexuality for ladylike glamour. For fall, she sent out floor-skimming gowns that will satisfy the celebrity set. Nifty minidresses covered in art print drew the hem above the knee for a kicky cool.

Donatella continued a major color trend for fall with purple, purple everywhere.

What am I pining for? The gorgeous yet understated one-shoulder black cocktail dress that hits below the knee but looks as sexy as anything the house has ever created.

The sexy Italian houses all went subtle for Spring 2008. Like Cavalli and Versace, Dolce and Gabbana was another design team who embraced a sweeter side. The boys sent out organza dresses plus swingy brocatelle minis and knee length shift dresses. Feminine pieces were toughened up with the addition of a shoe boot and menswear trousers softened by gauzy blouses.

Domenico and Stefano then took an artistic turn with paint splashed spin-offs of their organza dresses. The pièce de résistance of this D&G collection was a series of gowns with splashes of color and big skirts created from yards of tulle. These gowns are very avant garde, but they’ll require an equally bold personality to pull off.

Restraint has been the name of the game at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2008. First Cavalli reigned in his typical wild woman to present a collection with nary a hint of leopard print. Now from the house whose founder once said, “You dress elegant women. You dress sophisticated women. I dress sluts,” comes an understated collection whose sexiness runs just under the surface. Versace is still partial to touchable silks and dresses meant to seduce, but Donatella also added flowing jumpsuits, dressed-up shorts, and fluid trousers.

Juicy color may have grabbed the most attention at Versace, but my personal faves were the neutral colored looks. The one-note shades of putty leather shorts and sable silk blouse were set off with a pop of aquamarine stiletto at the foot. Divine. A similar putty colored silk dress fell just above the knee and oozed a sophisticated sexiness. Beige shorts were paired with a fabulous chesnut leather jacket sporting roomy, cargo pockets.