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Gucci fashion show at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2008

I’ve been a bit apathetic about some of the things put out by Frida Giannini in the past, but I’m quick to admit that the F/W ‘08 Gucci collection is everything I want to wear. I’m in love with not only the clothes, but the freshly fucked hair, the khol-rimmed, smoky eye — the smoldering sexiness of it all.

Last spring, Phillip Lim described his collection as a girl who has been traveling and constantly picking up things on the way. As much as I love Philip Lim, I didn’t get that connection in his Spring 2008 collection.

I got that vibe from Gucci.

The clothes reminded me of a fashionable girl who’s following her rockstar boyfriend from country to country, hopping on jets, swilling champagne and collecting more clothes as she goes. She snatches up black jeans stateside, riding boots in London, ethnic prints in Russia. When she arrives somewhere just in time for a fabulous party, she shakes an ethnic scarf from her stuffed baggage and fashions it into a dress that becomes all the rage, natch.

I strive not to be one of those people who constantly looks back and reminisces about “the good old days”. Yet, every time I see a recent Gucci collection, I can’t help but pine for Tom Ford.

Let’s get this out of the way now: I don’t NOT like Frida Giannini. There’s nothing wrong with the collections she’s turned out for Gucci and there are more than a few things quite right about them. Let’s face it, she’s done wonders for their accessories collections (read: ca-ching, ca-ching) since she’s been there.

That said, I do miss those hyper-sexed up looks that channeled the maneater in every woman — and that says more about me than it does about either Ford or Frida.

Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection was all about the yin and yang – the feminine and masculine, the black and the white. Giannini sent out monochromatic prints in different silhouettes – full skirts, floor-length columns, and sexy minis – often accented with sparks of sunny yellow or bright pink. My favorite of these black and white looks is a mini with bustle hips and a canary yellow flower centered at the bodice. What I’m still on the fence about are the tough-girl plaids. The cropped plaid jackets and skinny pants work in some looks and in others…not so much.

Giannini also remixed the very successful Gucci “Indy” bag (again) although so far none of her changes trumps the lizard or the ombre versions, both of which I L-O-V-E. Her strength has always been in her accessories and I have no doubt that the ankle cuffed stilettos, open toe booties with V-cut insteps, and large clutches with wristlets will be a hit.